Brand: Edouard Koehn
Gender: Women’s
Movement: Mechanical movement (hand wind)
Case: 18K solid yellow Gold
Case Size: 26.5mm
Bracelet: 18K solid yellow Gold
Condition: Excellent condition
 
Up for sale is an exquisite antique ladies’ pendant pocket watch, made by Ed. Koehn, circa 1900. The 18K yellow gold case measuring 26.5mm in diameter features two distinct grey-blue translucent guilloché enamel patterns on the back, framed by an intricate platinum filigree border and set with old-cut diamonds. It is powered by a manual-wind movement with 18 jewels, adjusted to 8 positions, regarded as among the finest ladies’ calibers of its time, serial number 84145. A rare example of Belle Époque craftsmanship, uniting refined jewelry artistry with precision Genevan horology.
 
This timepiece was created by Ed. Koehn, one of the principal watchmakers of Patek Philippe’s golden era. It was marketed through the Geneva firm H.R. Ekegren, whose business Koehn took over after leaving Patek Philippe in 1891, and was ultimately retailed in the United States by the distinguished jeweler J.E. Caldwell & Co. The piece exemplifies the multi-layered international distribution network characteristic of the late 19th-century Genevan high watchmaking trade.
 
The movement is signed by both Ed. Koehn and H.R. Ekegren (see Fig. 10). The inner case back is further engraved with the names of Ed. Koehn, H.R. Ekegren, and the American retailer J.E. Caldwell & Co (see Fig.11), reflecting the collaborative production and commercial structures of the period. Originally, the watch was accompanied by a matching enamel necklace, which was sold separately by the previous owner and is unfortunately no longer present.
 
这是一枚1900年前后的精致古董女士吊坠怀表，由Ed. Koehn科恩制。18K黄金材质表壳，直径为26.5mm，底盖上装饰有两种不同玑镂纹路的蓝灰色半透明玑镂珐琅，铂金蕾丝花边框环绕，镶嵌老切钻石。搭载手动上链机芯，18石8方位校对，是当时女士怀表中最高级的机芯素质，序列号：84145。这是一枚典型的Belle Époque美好时代的珠宝时计，精美的珠宝工艺与日内瓦最高制表工艺的结合。
 
这是一枚Ed. Koehn的作品——他曾是百达翡丽黄金时代的重要制表师。由日内瓦市场经销商H.R. Ekegren负责出口(Ed. Koehn于1891年离开百达翡丽后接手了H.R. Ekegren)，最终由美国高级珠宝经销商J.E. Caldwell & Co引入美国市场并销售，完整地呈现了19世纪末日内瓦高级制表界常见的跨国销售体系。
 
机芯上可见Ed. Koehn及H.R. Ekegren签名(图10)，底盖内侧同时刻有制作方Ed. Koehn、日内瓦经销商H.R. Ekegren、以及美国终端零售商J.E. Caldwell & Co三方签名(图11)，正是当时日内瓦高级制表分层协作模式的典型体现。遗憾的是，这枚怀表原本配有一条装饰有相同珐琅工艺的项链，后由原主人单独出售，未能一并留存。