Brand: Patek Philippe
Gender: Women’s
Movement: Mechanical movement (hand wind)
Case: 18K solid yellow gold
Case Size: 35.5mm × 25mm
Bracelet: 18K solid yellow gold
Condition: Excellent condition
 
Offered here is a vintage Patek Philippe ladies’ wristwatch, Ref. 4128/1, crafted in 18K yellow gold, case no. 2699392, movement no. 1242582. The bezel is set with 32 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.08 carats. It is complemented by an exceptionally sculptural openwork bracelet composed of interlocking circular links also crafted in 18K yellow gold, and powered by a Cal. 13.5 manual-winding movement. Accompanied by its original paper and box, the watch remains in excellent overall condition.
 
This is a truly rare vintage Patek Philippe jewelry watch. Just how rare? A spherical table clock sharing a similar design was manufactured as a unique piece (Fig. 15).
 
What captivates me most is the bracelet. A series of circular links echoes the shape of the bezel, giving the watch an unmistakable sculptural presence. As the wrist moves, light dances effortlessly through the openwork links, bringing the gold to life. While photographing the watch, a little bee was unexpectedly drawn to its golden glow and briefly lingered beside it (Fig. 2).
 
More remarkable still, the bracelet is entirely free of gemstones, yet never feels understated. Its beauty comes purely from the form, proportion, and craftsmanship of the gold itself, which is exactly what makes the finest goldsmithing of the 1960s and '70s so compelling. The bracelet is far more than a means of attaching the watch to the wrist; it is a piece of avant-garde jewelry in its own right.
 
To me, this is one of those vintage watches that are far more beautiful on the wrist than in the hand. When held in the hand, it feels distinctive rather than immediately striking. But once worn, the openwork bracelet naturally unfolds with every movement of the wrist. That was the moment I truly understood its beauty.
 
百达翡丽古董女士珠宝腕表，型号4128/1，18K黄金材质，表壳编号：2699392，机芯编号：1242582。表圈原镶32颗明亮式切割钻石，总重约为1.08克拉，搭配18K黄金镂空圆环式表链，造型优雅且极具立体雕塑感，搭载Cal. 13.5手动上链机芯。附原始官方证书及原装表盒，整表品相极佳。
 
这是一支产量极为稀少的百达翡丽，少到什么程度呢？与她类似设计的一座球型小座钟，只制作了一台 (图15）。
 
最令人着迷的，当属这条表链。层层圆环彼此相扣，与表圈形成巧妙的呼应，赋予整支腕表鲜明的立体雕塑感。光线穿梭于一个个圆环之间，随着手腕缓缓转动，金属不断折射出光影。拍摄过程中，竟有一只小蜜蜂被她的光芒吸引而来，停留在旁 (图2）。
 
更难得的是，整条表链没有镶嵌一颗宝石，却丝毫不显单调。设计师完全依靠黄金本身的造型、比例与工艺，创造出远胜珠宝镶嵌的视觉张力。这正是上世纪六七十年代高级金工艺术最迷人的地方，她不是一条简单的表链，本身就是一件前卫的珠宝作品。
 
这支古董百达翡丽，也是我认为典型的“戴上手远比拿在手上看更美”的例子之一。拿在手中端详时，只觉得她很独特，未必立刻被惊艳到，但当她佩戴在手腕上时，镂空的圆环随着手腕自然铺展开来，那一刻，我才意识到她美极了。